Hi, I have a truck, 3/4 ton, 4wd, 350 ci, chevy pick-up.  The cluch fork seems to be misaligned when the pedal is depressed.  That is, when the pedal is pushed down, it won't go to the floor, but when I go under the truck and have someone else depress the pedal, i pull down on the fork and it seems to align.  When i pull down it feels like it "jumps into place" and moves back another inch, thus allowing the pedal to go all the way to the floor.  Is the fork off the ball stud?  And if it is, can I fix it without removing the transmission and transfer case?  Thank you!!!!

Probably not, if the clutch fork or pivot ball or throw out bearing is worn to the point that it is binding, you'll need to pull the tranny and xfer case, there's no other way to fix it.  While you've got it apart I'd go ahead and replace everything (the clutch/pilot bushing/throwout bearing/clutch fork) Is your linkage bent or misaligned? That will casue problems also. As for the hydraulic clutch set up, I don't know of a bolt on kit, but I'm sure it would be possible...You'll need a slave cylinder, a way to hook it to the clutch pedal, the hydraulic lines, and piston to push the clutch fork.  You'll also need a bracket (1/4" thick should be strong enough) bolted to the bellhousing for the piston to mount to.  The slave cylinder and piston should be matched, maybe you can modify the hydraulic clutch system off a late model Chevy?  New Chevy clutches are on the passenger side, but I don't see why it wouldn't work on the driver's side with some new hydraulic lines.  

How do I make sure the clutch linkage is at the correct angle?  When I look at it, it seems to be all wrong, you know, not like the pictures in the Haynes book.  It seems the adjusting rod is hitting the fork at an angle.  Like the adjusting rod is pointing toward the center of the truck, not straight back.  I'm not sure if I mentioned this, but the push rod (through the floor) Has been lengthened by 2 inches. This is to account for a 2 inch body lift.  Some one said the stock length rod would work, but when I had a stock rod, I burned out 2 through out bearings in 6 months.  The truck was rebuilt 4 years ago, and the clutch has never work as it should since.  Every now and then I lengthen the adjusting rod to try and get some more travel, and it makes it better, but only for a week or so, then its back to the way it was.  Something is binding up bad.  The clutch, pivot ball, fork, fly wheel, pilot bearing were all replaced about a year ago, so it cant be normal wear.  The trans was rebuilt also.  Should I just take it to Cottman?

Yeah, it sounds like you have a linkage problem!  I would disconnect the push rod and linkage and make sure that the clutch fork is working smoothly. Have you checked the pivot on the crosstube? One side bolts to the frame and the other pivots on a stud ball that is on the side of the tranny.  The crosstube may be worn and that might cause a misalignment.  I would also check the length of the push rod, I think your push rod is too long.  With a 2 inch body lift, the push rod will probably need to be longer than stock, but maybe not a full 2 inches, with the push rod disconnected, adjust the horizontal rod that pushes on the clutch fork until the lower arm on the crosstube is nearly straight up and down, angled a little bit to the rear, and see where the upper arm on the crosstube is in relation to the push rod from the clutch pedal, that should give you a good starting point on how long the push rod should be. If the push rod is too long it will cause the linkage to god past the pivot center and cause binding (like an over-center latch or a the handles on a pair of vice grips). Also, you'll want to adjust the linkage until in meets the stock measurements. The Haynes manual tells you how to check it, measured from the floor to the pedal.  Maybe you can find a buddy that has a similar truck and take some measurements on the length of the adjusting rod and the position of the clutch linkage.  I hope that helps!

Man!  That helps a lot.  I'll check it out soon.  I guess i can disconnect the push rod (through the floor) and see if the cross bar moves at all, that wasn't replaced as far as I can remember.  I'll do as you said, maybe cut that push rod down a bit.  I'll let you know what happens, thanks a million!