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4x4Ranger
Enthusiast
| Posts: 454
| Joined: 02/06
Posted: 04/13/06 02:55 AM
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I've got a nice little trick for those of you that have a plastic bedliner and would like to prevent rust buildup on the bed. Take your liner out and wash the trucks bed real good and let it dry. Next get yourself a good paste wax and apply it real heavy on the bed sides and floor of the bed, let it dry and put your liner back in. I've always have done this in the past and it works great. Try it and take the liner out a couple of years later and the wax is still there and there is no sign of rust.
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redbeast
Enthusiast
| Posts: 516
| Joined: 02/06
Posted: 04/13/06 07:11 PM
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A good light coating of bearing grease does the same thing. I learned this from my off-shore boating days. If you have a steel trailer you need to get under it and grease it all up at once a year - ( Greashe me up woman! )
Ya gotta grease up everything that will rust - the trailer rails, axles, hubs, u-bolts, bunk bolts, etc..The only thing ya don't want to get grease on are the surge brake pads or inside the brake drums. This procedure saved me a ton of money and welding replacement parts on the trailer. something I had to do with my first trailer - no fun at all! Anything that's steel that you drive under water regularly is going to rust like hell! All ya can do to the brake assemblies is hose them off with fresh water real good at the boat ramp.
Even a 'galvanized trailer will rust after a while. It doesn't hurt to do this on aluminum trailers either. Not every thing is made of aluminum - such as the axles, u-bolts and part of the brakes.
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4x4Ranger
Enthusiast
| Posts: 454
| Joined: 02/06
Posted: 04/14/06 01:19 AM
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I'm not knock'en the grease thing but it sounds like a messy job for the bed coating.
I've got a boat, motor and trailer that was made way back in 66'. The trailer of course in made from steel and is still in pretty good shape other than some reinforcing that I did back in the 90's . I also painted the whole trailer with marine paint that is still intact. They sure don't make things like they used to.
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redbeast
Enthusiast
| Posts: 516
| Joined: 02/06
Posted: 04/14/06 06:00 PM
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You don't use a whole lot of grease on the parts that are visible, but just a very light coat so the rust can't start. If it's going to get dirt & dust on it, probably be better to go with the wax idea. I'm not sure if the wax would dry & crack and allow rust to get a foothold in some areas.
I sanded, grinded the whole trailer, and cut off & welded the entire rear section behind the rear axle that was too far gone on my first steel trailer. I painted the whole thing in a rust inhibitor primer & paint. It all depends what environment you will be in - In my case it was salt water and I have to submerge most of the trailer to almost above the tires to get "the bear" to float off of it. I could not use any shallow ramps cause I would have had to submerge half the truck before the boat would come off. I could only use the steeper graded ramps.
It didn't matter mow much paint I put on the steel, it kept rusting an flaking off until I started greasing the entire thing. I never had a problem after that. I just had to re-coat it once a year with a good marine bearing grease.
That was my first, and last steel trailer . After that I went with a mostly aluminum EZ-Loader brand trailer. Not everything on it is aluminum so there is still some greasing to be done on theses. The surge brake axle assemblies I usually had to replace every 4-5 years.
Edited 4/14/2006 7:02 pm ET by redbeast (redbeast2)
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4x4Ranger
Enthusiast
| Posts: 454
| Joined: 02/06
Posted: 04/14/06 08:54 PM
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The wax didn't crack. I pulled the liner out of it a couple of years later to check the condition of the bed, it looked great with no rust showing. I did this on my now gone Chevy S-10 but haven't done it on the Ferd. I've got too many other problems to worry about fixing. The Ferd's engine will probalbly go before the bed will rust away.
:FERD,THE FIRST VEHICLE AND THE WORST VEHICLE:
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Blackchevy
Enthusiast
| Posts: 455
| Joined: 10/04
Posted: 04/14/06 11:01 PM
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Or you just get some Herculiner and take care of it yourself, no need for a drop in then. Wax is a good idea though.
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4x4Ranger
Enthusiast
| Posts: 454
| Joined: 02/06
Posted: 04/14/06 11:44 PM
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I've thought of doing the herculiner thing, but since I already have the liner I might as well keep it since I payed a pretty penny for it. Also I very rarely ever haul anything in it to screw it up. If I were to try to sell it I wouldn't get much for it these days.
P.S. Have you talked to the pain in the ass Snoman on FourWheeler lately? This guy thinks he knows everything about everything. I'm going to start posting some stuff that I know how to fix just to see how much he really knows.
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4x4Ranger
Enthusiast
| Posts: 454
| Joined: 02/06
Posted: 04/15/06 12:02 AM
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I know that I said to put a heavy coat of wax on the bed. I understand what you were thinking of about the wax cracking. I didn't really mean putting it on extremely thick, just a little bit more than you would if you were to wax your car or truck. This is why it stayed on and didn't crack.
Thank's for the tip for greasing the trailer up. I myself use my boat in salt water 90 percent of the time and once in a while I take it to the upper part of Conowingo Dam on the Cecil-Harford County line in Md. I don't take it up there to much anymore because of the long drive. There is some really good fishing above and below the dam if you like to catch crappie, perch, channel cat, hickery shad, rockfish, herring, and also Deer Creek flows right into the lower part of the dam as this is one of the hottest places to catch fish. You can also go further up Deer Creek to catch some nice trout.
Edited 4/15/2006 1:25 am by 4x4Ranger (4x4Range1)
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