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Posted: 10/13/03 11:08 AM
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Good day to everyone. I have some questions for those who have more knowledge than me. I have a '81 CJ7 with and I-6 and either a TF727 or Chrysler999. Right now, one of my goals is to install an AMC 360 from a '77 Wagoneer. From what I understand, the engine will bolt directly to the transmission regardless. The problems as I understand, are that the motor mounts need to be moved toward the rear, cooling ( I plan to use the radiator from the Wagoneer, I think its 3 rows). and exhaust (I am thinking fender headers). What other considerations am I not accounting for? I am also at a lose when it comes to suspension. I would love to do a spring over axle conversion. I also would like wider axles. I have considered using Scout axles or full size Chevy axles. The Chevy axles seem like a good idea because they are set up for a springs over the axle anyway. First off, I have to move my springs out on my frame to account for the difference in spring placement on the axles (extra width). I think I have to go with a longer driveshaft, longer shocks, and extended brakelines. I have to account for the steering somehow, will the Chevy components be useful? I plan to run 33" tires, 35" max for now. Is this a good swap, or should I just go with a 4" suspension lift? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Stephen Lance
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Posted: 10/13/03 12:56 PM
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hello you and me are in kind of the same rutt u see i have a 80 model cj7 and i need to know if a jimmy frame will fit it or if so how hard to swap?
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Posted: 10/14/03 05:14 AM
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I don't know how to help you out. Sounds like an interesting swap. Good Luck.
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JEEPDUDE
New User
| Posts: 19
| Joined: 09/03
Posted: 10/14/03 01:37 PM
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Hello!, Your swap is a very popular and simple process. The AMC 360 is a very solid engine and very modifiable for more power and torque if you so desire. Yes, the engine will bolt directly to either one the transmissions listed. Just make sure you get the flex plate from the 360 engine as between the two engines, they are balanced differently. No, the motor mounts will not need to be moved towards the rear. You can go to your local Jeep dealer and order the left and right motor mounts, two motor isolators, and the right side (passenger side) frame stand for the motor. Now you will need to tell them it is for a '79, '80 or '81 Jeep CJ-7 with a factory AMC 304. The left side frame stand is the same. The AMC 290, 304, 343, 360, 390, and 401 V-8's are physically the same where the motor mounts are bolted on to them. If you want to save some money, the isolators off of the Wagoneer 360 will work. But usually they are toast and the new ones are not really very much. ($14.00 or so each). If you cannot get any luck with your Jeep dealer I can e-mail you the part #s. If you want to skip the hassle then M.O.R.E. off road sells their own design and they are super wammy strong and very hard to beat. They are just a little more expensive if you are on a budget. As far as the cooling is concerned, the Wagoneer radiator will not physically fit in the CJ. By the time you have it modified to work, you could be $$ ahead to order a 4 core from MEPCO, or an aluminum one from BECOOL or one from your local radiator shop in town. You can use the factory exhaust manifolds or like you stated, fenderwell hedders (due to the transmission). You may want to check out Doug Thorly. They make some very nice tri-y hedders, in frame, and they sit lower than others, so they may work with your automatic. All of the wiring is the same, you will have to lengthen the factory temp and oil pressure sending wires. Make sure you also have the Motorcraft distributor and not the prestolite one. The Chevy axles are right on as long as you stay with the Dana 44 or 60 for the front and the corporate 14 bolt out back. (your also looking at 8 lug patterns unless you adapt down). Avalanche Engineering offers a conversion for the front wide Chevy axle as well as a steering arm to locate the steering on top of the knuckle to solve the steering problem. All you would have to do on the rear is relocate the spring perches. Just be aware that you will need a anti-axle wrap (traction) bar for the rear, especially if you use the factory Jeep springs. You will have to get new drivelines or modify yours and longer brakelines. The 4" spring under suspension for your Jeep with a 1" body lift will clear the 33's no problem and the 35's with a little fender trimming (I recommend the Rubicon Express kit. It comes complete with shocks, brakelines, and shackles and uses YJ springs). But you will still be stuck with your narrow track axles unless you go with the Scout set up. Either way is a good system, and it all depends on your mechanical skill and/or money to have to pay somebody to do it. I am glad to see you go with the AMC motor and hope this helps you to tackle the trail.
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