I drive a 1985 k-5 blazer 4wd(of course) and just getting into lifting it and new suspension, the ride used to be really bumpy so i changed the shocks out, not to anything special just ran over to pep boys for somethin, and my ride is still bumpy, do i need better shocks or is it the body thats so bumpy..
any information on what i should do with it would be great, lift size, tire size, brand of suspension, someone help me out please! oh yeah i mostly want to make it a mud bogger  

Shocks will help alot. Those pep-boy specials probably did nothing for you. Get a good set of Bilstiens or Rancho's and you will see a world of differance.

When you do pick a lift, look for one that is all spring, no blocks. A nice progressive pack like a Deaver will help smoothen out your ride quite a bit too.

Let us know how it goes!  

A 4-inch suspension lift is about average. Higher than that and you have to worry about fliping the thing whenever your not on a level surface off-road. Depending on angle you's be surprised how little effort that takes some days. Don't waste your money on body lifts that's only lift for the sake of lift - no benefit. Your'e just lifting the body off the frame - no gain in clearance or articulation.
When it comes to ANY hardware you install on your rig you will get what you pay for. You get cheap parts you get bumpy ride. As far as lifts I would recommend you look at rough country or high-jacker. Rancho lifts are inexpensive but will rattle your teeth they are so stiff. Personally I wouldn't change the stock rear springs on the K5 - if they are 6-leaf or better. Just get some shackle flip kits from ORD to get your 4-inch lift. The stock K5 springs are plenty heavy duty unless you plan on hairy rock crawling on something extreme like that.
Don't ever get a 'block lift for the front - no matter what any fool mechanic tells you. Very dangerous. Rear blocks are alright as long as they are the heavy cast iron ones and not the cheap aluminum auto parts one - those are designed for 'street queen' lifts and not off-road use. They will disintegrate on you.
As far as tire size you can go with 33's without any fender trimming. 35's or 36 and you may need to trim the rear of the front fenders a bit. Tires: TSL Boggers are great for mud but not good for street use. If you do both get something in between with an aggresive tread. I've had pretty good luck with Mickey Claws and Procomp X-Terrains.
Don't forget to get brake line extensions - two in front and one for the rear axle.
You will also need a raised steering arm or a lowered pitman arm to maintain correct steering geometry. Don't run it without doing the steering or brake extensions. Steering will snap on you bigger 'n *** when you least expect it, and if you over articulate off road you will tear out a brake line.
Don't forget the pinion angle on the rear drive shaft when you lift. Tak to the folks at ORD about that - http://www.offroaddesign.com
Hope this helps you some to get started.  

I put the 4" Rough country on mine and it rides better than it did on stock springs. I got all 4 springs, shocks and pitman arm, and pinion angle shims for the rear axle as a kit from them. I had to order the brake lines but they werent expensive and as I ordered them with the lift kit they didnt charge S&H on the brake lines. 84 Chevy Blazer (M1009 Army) 6.2L diesel TH400 NP208 GM 10 bolt front & rear with Detroit lockers front & rear 4:10 gears. I went with pro comps X terrain tires on series 99 rims, looks good and rides really good and works well off road. Only thing I would do different, is a selectable locker in the rear.