ok first off i have an 88 jeep cherokee pioneer 4x4 with the
command-trac transfer case, dana 30 front, dana 35 rear. i read stuff
about how you shouldn't use lockers in the front diff unless you have
manual locking hubs. they say that this is bc when disengaged it
bypasses the diff acting like an open diff. now i'm no expert, but
from what i understand, when the command-trac transfer case is in 2wd,
the front driveshaft doesn't spin, so it send no power to the front
axle. furthermore, i understand that when the command-trac transfer
case is in 2wd, the passenger side axleshaft is not connected to the
diff (only the drivers side is connected to the diff). so basically,
if only the drivers side wheel is connected to the front diff, and the
wheel is only moving from forward motion (not being driven), why the
hell couldn't i run a spool up front if i want to? am i wrong here?
the reason i ask is bc i am looking into lockers and limited slips. i
don't want to fork out the money for selectable lockers, yet i hear
really bad things about automatic lockers causing lots of problems. if
i could get away with running a spool up front i will. i mean, if i am
right, and the spool would only really engage when i put it in 4wd,
then what would be wrong in doing so? i would just have to be pretty
careful about where i use my 4wd at correct?

if anyone has any experience with lockers and limited slips in a dana
30 froont and dana 35 rear i would love any input. just understand, i
don't wanna spend the money for selectable lockers. i know they are
great and perfect for everything but they are too expensive for me! i
have been seriously considering limited slip front and rear (i hear
good stuff about auburns LS), or LS up front and automatic locker in
the rear (lockright maybe?) the vehicle is my daily driver, so i want
driveability to be affected as little as possible. i hear automatic
lockers make tons of noise from locking and unlocking, but since the
rear has so much less differential action than the front of the
vehicle, would an automatic locker be bad in the rear? i don't want it
to be noisy (between the rumbling of my engine, the roar of my mud
tires, and my stereo system i can't handle anymore!), and i don't want
it to put alot of stress on my drivetrain.

i know some of u jeep gurus out there can answer my questions! i very
well may be wrong about running a spool up front but i have done alot
of research and this is just what i've gotten out of it. if i am
right, technically i could run any kind of diff i want up front right?
i know the rear is a different story. if i can get away with running a
spool up front, i mind even splurge on a selectable locker for the
rear with the money i save. thanks in advance yall!

james morrow

im helping some 1 build up there jeep and the drivelines sound identical. im 99% sure the axel is always engaged  and the transerfercase basicly locks the front to the rear drive shaft in 4 wheel drive and unlocks the front in 2. but the axel is still conected and the drvechaft will spin w/ the axel. i hope this helps. and good luck,

                                                          Derek

Xjjeebs---

I posted this reply on another board---so you may have already seen this, but in case you haven't:

For starters, I don’t know where you’ll find a spool for either of your axles. A brief perusal of the catalogs from Moser Engineering, Summit Racing, Strange Engineering, Chrisman’s and Mark Williams Enterprises turned up nothing. Which might be just as well since spools place tremendous torsional loads on axle shafts, and the axles that came with your Jeep aren’t exactly the stoutest pieces Dana ever offered, particularly the D35 rear. As far as I know, the smallest axle you can find a spool for would be a Dana 44 or Chrysler 8.75-inch, or Ford 8.8.

Yes, you could weld up the spider gears (the "Lincoln Locker") and it will act very much like a spool, but the ring-and-pinion assembly will be weaker overall as a result.

fficeffice" />>> 

>>

Either way, a spool is a flat-out BAD IDEA for front-end use unless you only intend to drive in a straight line (i.e., drag racing). The reason is that it provides a solid link between the ring gear and the axle shafts, providing equal amounts of torque to both wheels and turning the axle shafts at the same rate ALL THE TIME---which is to say, it never allows for variations in wheelspeed. This is fine for driving in a straight line, but the minute you attempt to steer the vehicle in one direction or another---immediately inducing wheelspeed differentiation---the spool will try to correct for this, and the result will be pronounced understeer, jerky and unpredictable handling, driveline binding, and premature failure of components including (but not limited to) axle shafts and U-joints.

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Unless you’re considering a beefier rear axle swap (to a D44 at minimum), you’re much better off going with a limited-slip up front such as a Detroit Truetrac, LockRight or Auburn unit, a limited-slip or Detroit Locker in the rear, or selectable lockers such as ARBs in both ends. And forget about a front spool either way.

 >>

Douglas McColloch

Editorial Director, 4WOR