Hey guys im new to this site but was just wondering ive got a 85 k10 402 stroker with a th350 and im wondering why most guys go to a 14 bolt rear and just beef up the front 10s? ive got a set of 14bolt ff's off of a 80s model deisel (i think) and im getting ready to lock and regear them to tote 44's Ive been told they have 4.56s in them but i havent cracked them open yet. Any one thats done this before with advice ,on if im going to have to cut or lengthin the shafts or cut some spring perches or if i should or shouldnt use the front axel,it would be greatly appriciated. thanks  

First, 4.56 are a bit of a joke for 44's. It is kinda like 3.07 with stock tires which is also a joke. You want AT LEAST a 5.38 (which is the deepest you can go with that axle and even then is tall with 44's. Up front, forget D44/10bolt and you want at least a D60. Even then you are pushing it. You are really getting into rockwell country. IF you go the D60 up front, do not lock it and it may live for a good while. Lock it and I do not lock for it to last long with 44's. In rear, you are pushing it with 14 bolt FF but unlocked it should hold up. Locked it will be a bit iffy. I would strongly suggest that if you want to stay with non rockwell drive axle, get a AAM 11.5 out of a 2001 on 2500HD or 3500 SRW with a Big Block or a Dmax. It is a good bit stronger than 14 bolt FF in housing,axle tubes, carrier, axle shafts and ring and pinion. It is rated with about a 30% higher input torque capacity, steady state and peak. (it is rated at about 2800 FT lbs input to pinion flange vers about 2200 for 14 bolt.  

well its only going to be raw dawged for only about a year then its gettn frame up resto and the boggers are getting swapped for 44 trxus's it was my first vehicle/love so i dont wont it to rust away in the mudd but after the paint im definatly gettin somthing else that ill be thrown rockwells on but i really need to know bout the shafts and leafspring/shock purchs...thanks on the reply  

On shafts, axle or drive shaft??? The 44 will be way beyond capacity with 44's and a strong motor and locker increase strain on axle shafts a lot. On drive shafts, if you run deep enough gears to limit average drive shaft torque, they will last longer. People that have drive shaft problems ar running big tires and tall gears relative to tire size and do not even remotely consider the impact on drive shaft torque or chassis and motor/tranny/Tcase mount counter torque twist.On the springs, 44's would lead to some very serious spring torque wrapup issues. You really need a 4 link setup and if you stay with leafs, you need a really heavy stack to resist flex/wrapup but then this degrades ride and limits articulation.  

on the whole swap will it just boltin on or do i have to shorten the driveshafts or relocate purches  

Which swap (what for what?)  

going from my stock 10 bolt axles to the 14 and dana 60 up front  

YOu are going to have to shorten drive shafts some because the pinion yoke is further out from axle centerline.  

Just get your lift and axles in, then measure for the drivelines and if it fits like its supposed to then it will work, if it don't then take it to a driveline shop and let them set you up.  

Also, listen to what snoman has for advice because it sounds like he has had plenty of experience and I admire him for his knowledge and help he offers.  

oh everything is together it sits how it is in the pic i got some one inch blocks i might add when im doin the 1 ton swaps but i know the axels i have cant handle 42's and im almost certain i can clear them i went completly airborn on a hill when i had 39.5s and still didnt scrub on landing i guess ill just fix them axel probs as i run into them.  

snoman you think i could find a shorter yoke rather than cut the shafts also the shaft still got about 2.? inches i can slide it in the case noticed that when i was put in these new stocker axels.  

I think I would put it together and see where you are at in drive shaft length. You need to consider drive shaft spline engagement at full extension and compression. In the rear you never want to bottom out in splines because axle torque can cause it to compress a bit more so You want about 1/2 to 3/4 inch spare space there at max compression static. On extension, you really want no less than about 2 inches of engagement.BTW, you can figure out drive shaft length with a little math. Measure Tcase output to ground (call this "A") and then axle yoke to ground (call this "B"). Then subtract axle pinion height ("B") from Tcase height("A")and this forms your right triangle.(call this "C") With this you can then take the static length of drive shaft (call it "D") and square it and then square the distance that is the result of subtracting rear axle pinion height from Tcase yoke height("C"). Subtract this from static length and take square root of result and this will be the actual distance between Tcase and pinion yoke at max compression (call it "E") unless you have extended bump stops.  If you have extended bump stops,measure distance between axle and bump stop (call this "F") and subtract it from "C" and call the result "G". Then, take "D" (which we have gotten earlier) and square it then square "G". Add "G"sq and "E"sq together  then take square root of answer (call it "H")and that will be drive shaft length at make compression. Did I confuse you here?  

I just have to comment on this Snoman, you are a genious. I follow what you are explaining to this guy on his truck build-up and hopefully it all works for him. I have to say that it gets confusing but once you go through it all and get your numbers, it all comes together. Good luck!  

yea im good at geometry never thought of using it on this but i get what your saying do u know if there is purch width differences between the 14s and the 10s