Has anybody got information on putting a snorkel on a dodge ramcharger or similar body styles?  I just need a guide in the right direction.  

im thinking about using the tbi hat from a k&n intake kit from a 91-097 chev and then bending some three inch exhaust tubing to plumb out the fender and up. just waiting for one to come into the shop that someone doesent want anymore.  

Look more to snorkeling than just extending intake. If you are planning on running in deep water, intake is but a small part of the bigger picture here.  

Are you looking to simply elevate your intake, protect it, or do you want to create an external snorkel body? Seems like a similar question but lets take for example you are running a mixture of dusty roads and mud pits, if this is not your daily driver and you don't mind spending a little time under the hood you could always look at relocating the intake to the inside of the cab. Let us know more about what you are hoping to accomplish and we will be able to send you in a more precise direction.  

i myself am looking to tatally submerge my dodge and not worry. however, evan now a "small" puddle will kill the motor "wait ten and go". ive heard it's a dodge trait. any help would helpl.  

You are going to need more than a snorkel. YOu are going to need to seal ignition system, fuel system, tranny, Tcase electrical and alternator and so on. Right now if a puddle is killing it, it is likely ignition wiring/cap getting wet. Spraying a few coats of silicone spray lube on ignition wiring and cap should cure puddle problem.  

I stumbled on this thread while doing my own research about putting a snorkel on my 89 RC. I understand the whole sealing EVERYTHING up to do it right, but I have never heard about running it into the cab. Would you please elaborate on that idea a bit for me?

TY!  

Personally I would NOT run it into cab. Several hundred CFM being sucked out of it means windows are down to do it suck water and mud spray into cab plus cab can get water in it too. Best to have air intake high and opening point back and down a bit.  

alright it wasent the smalllest puddle. but i already have siliconed my cap shut used lots of dielectric grease and silcone on the wires . but she still always spuders through lots of water. illl try some silicone spray on every thing though sounds like some good stuff.  

Make sure you get coil too.  over 30 years ago before there was silicone spray, I used to use hair spray. It worked pretty good.  

go to your local hardware store and wander the isles... plumbing, garden, just wander every isle... there's alot of stuff used to seal other devices that can be used on a vehicle...  there are even submergable electrical box's with grommets and whatnot to run wires into then close up... there are also oilfield and industrial supply stores that have things that work quite well in a mud truck application...  and as for the distributor... i know they make rubber boots for them... but you can also make a box  which bolts together with a hole in the top and one side... and just bolt it around the distributor and seal it up with silicone...  

If I wanted to waterproof a engine, it would be a carbed one because there is less to protect. Starter and alternator are going to be big issues too if they get submerged.  

that is a whole lota stuff i never thought of. i dont think the stater is to bad but yeah the alternator might not like to drink that much water. how do you get around it.  

Starter is a issue and being down low, it is a problem. You could seal and waterproof starter but then you need to seal and waterproof bellhousing too to keep water out of it and taking out clutch or water pressure taking out converter seal. IT needs to be fully sealed and vented. (you vent it because air in it expands with heat and when cooled suddenly in water air contracts and lower pressure and if not allowed to equalize with vent, it could suck water in past sealed areas. Seal bellhousing would also remove a path for water to get into a otherwise sealed starter. On Alternator, you need to get a closed frame unit that is not open to elements.