Purchased a  K10 at a bargain price.

Would like a hydraulic cam recommendation.

I know the last 3 owners of this 1980 K10 Chevy.

The first owner swapped the 250 six for a 350 motor.
Was told it had camel hump heads with a RV cam
Used to plow snow, ect.

Second owner (16 yr old) sent it to the local body shop to fix the rust (new doors, fenders and hood) and paint, between the frame rails fuel tank, aluminum Cragers and wide radials, an assembled steel flatbed (decent job) and chrome 4 inch stacks.

The third owner couldn't get it to run after installing the new  parts that follow, purchased from Summit Racing:

Summit cast iron heads
Pushrods and Hydraulic lifters
Stamped rocker arms -Brand and ratio unknown
(have a "+" mark on them)
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb
14" moroso air cleaner
Edelbrock performer intake
50,000 volt HEI distributor - Summit?
Long tube headers with 3 inch collector- no flanges- brand x?
3" Flowmasters
Pro Stock degreed harmonic balancer (No Pointer)
New water pump
Aluminum and stainless flex fan
High volume oil pump (this is a guess- lots of pressure- 1st owner asked about the LOW oil pressure)
New oil pan
plus more shiny stuff.
After installing all these new parts he couldn't get it running.

Found TDC on #1 and installed the distributor correctly and it was running.
Did the clatter trick to adjust the lifters with the engine running and squirting oil everywhere..
Still didn't run right.
Did the "clean" method with the engine turned off.
Stopped when I found a lifter collapsed (no spring action).

Since I have lifters to replace, a cam that fits this combination i what I'm looking for.
Can someone help me with cam selection?

More info.
Piston type and CR are unknown - how can this be determined?
3.42 axle ratios
4 speed with creeper 1st tranny
32x11.50 R15 LT MS tires

Thanks,
K10  

You have some really bad combos here. The headers and 3 inch pipes murders low and mid RPM efficiency which kills MPG. Next you have a low compression engine so if you install a warmer cam it will suck even worse on MPG. Then there is the 3.42 gear with 32's another bad combo for your engine. For starters, lose the 3.42's for some 4.10's, next, 3 inch duals need to go. Also if headers are bigger than 1 1/2 inch tubes they are wrong too. A little bit of back pressure is good for a engine for better lower RPM response and efficiency. Most do not drive their trucks at 4000 RPM plus all the time so these mods you have are not helping you though they sound impressive and that is why someone did them. To me a good engine in a heavy 4x4 has strong low and midrange torque where you do most of your work.  

Thanks SnoMan.
Not exactly how I would have spent my money.
Has a lot of potential as a plow truck though.
Spoke with an older gent today that says he is going sell his 7 trucks and parts.
Says he has a 4.11 Chevy 4x4 front axle for $ 75.
We crossed paths at the right time.
I expected that the front differential was going to be harder to come by.  Seems that will not be a problem.
Now for the rear. Then I can peddle the 3.42s.
K10  

I have put many hours on a few plow trucks. They all had stock motors, deeper gears and stock exhaust. qhwn plowing snow, top end power is of no value and low RPM power, efficiency and response is everything.