got a question?? would it be possible just to lift the front two inches with larger coil springs without having to deal with the radious, pitman arm, and axle?? thanks..  

yes because you are just leveling the truck.  

cjschultz:
got a question?? would it be possible just to lift the front two inches with larger coil springs without having to deal with the radious, pitman arm, and axle?? thanks..

No not really. That is a TTB/swing axle front end. If you extend the coils, you throw camber off and handling and tire wear will suffer.  

Well that was what I was thinking but if I get a camber/ caster eccentrics kit. Would I be able to do 2in lift. Not really sure how far off that will be pushing the alignment out of specs.  

There is no "kit" to fix this. It is a swing axle that is hinged in middle and when axle is extend past level, the wheels tilt inward at bottom as it pivots on center hinge. The onlt proper way to raise that front end is to get a kit the lowers front axle (moves it away for truck) so that it can be raised/lifted while keeping wheels at proper camber angle. The TTB is really kinda a bastard front end to have when you want to lift it and run big tires. It is at its "best" when left near stock.  

2" lift is not going to throw the camber out so much that it can't be realigned using new camber/caster bushings.

Going above 2-2.5" lift is when you'll need the brackets to drop the axle down.  

sfr4x4:
2" lift is not going to throw the camber out so much that it can't be realigned using new camber/caster bushings.

Going above 2-2.5" lift is when you'll need the brackets to drop the axle down.

There is no camber bushings to adjust to make up for that. You can tweak castor but not camber for a 2 inch lift. The TTB is basically a D44 the has a hinge in the middle. They is no camber bushings in a straight axle either. The reason TTB tend to eat tires and handle funny on choppy roads so much is because they is no positive control of camber angles. As the front end articulates, the camber angle/contact load center of tires is changing a lot AND the track width is constantly changing as well, erasing the tires.  

thanks for the info. i think i will do four just to even it out. for now. get all the brackets and stuff easy enough. but also i was looking around for options and how bout converting into a straight axle instead. what would i be benefiting with a straight axle?  

cjschultz:
thanks for the info. i think i will do four just to even it out. for now. get all the brackets and stuff easy enough. but also i was looking around for options and how bout converting into a straight axle instead. what would i be benefiting with a straight axle?

Well outside of the fact that the TTB is arguably one of the worst front drive axles ever put on a 4x4, a solid axle swap (SAS) would increase durability, improve tracking and handling and simply future lifts plus there is a lot less bushings to wear out too so it stays tight a lot longer too. TTB's are okay if left basically stock but when you want to get serious about lift, it is time to do a SAS. Furthermore, TTB has LESS ground clearance because of hinge and the fact the hinge gets closer to ground on suspension compression as it pivots upward on ends. With a sold axle, axle ground clearance never changes short of tire compression.  

:
There is no camber bushings to adjust to make up for that. You can tweak castor but not camber for a 2 inch lift. The TTB is basically a D44 the has a hinge in the middle. They is no camber bushings in a straight axle either. The reason TTB tend to eat tires and handle funny on choppy roads so much is because they is no positive control of camber angles. As the front end articulates, the camber angle/contact load center of tires is changing a lot AND the track width is constantly changing as well, erasing the tires.



Then what are these things then??

http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/53200.htm

Sure looks like a caster/CAMBER bushing to me...
They go up to 2.75° which is MORE than enough to compensate for a measly 2" lift.

Might want to do a bit more research on that.  

IT is a form of a a "shim" that has been around since 70's that they used behind spindles on sold front axle to make slight changes in camber (long ago the use to actually bend housing in a 25 ton jack/clamp to set camber on a straight/solid front drive axle. The whole flaw with you link is that it is a attempt to put a poor bandaid fix on a very poor axle design. With a solid axle you set the camber and caster and it basically stays constant as you drive. Even a true IFS is designed so that there is limited camber shift and it shift in a way so that track width stays fairly constant using unequal arms to do this as it articulates. With a TTB, you try to set camber static, get in truck it changes, brake it changes, load it changes, articulate suspension and it changes and with it track width and erases tire and can make for strange handling on choppy roads as tires not only have to track but track width is changing with each bum or hole  cause rapid changes in side forces on tire and trucks front end. This after market bandaid is for poor soul that want to believe there is a fix for design limitations but the only true fix here is to scrap the TTB and go solid or TRUE IFS because TTB is not a true IFS at all though some like to call it that. It is nothing more than a using a old design based on a set of rear swing axles out of a of a 49 VW bug with steer. The rear swing axle had problems in 49 in the rear of a car and has no business in the front of a 4x4. Why Ford hung on to it as long as they did is beyond me.  

ROTFLMFAO!!

You're funny dude Go tell that to all the (poor soul) Baja racers who blast through the desert at 100 MPH on these (as you call it) poorly designed, strange handling front ends that are so awful!

Those spindle shims you mention were only invented because you CANNOT change the camber on a STRAIGHT axle (other than by bending the housing in a press as you say... although if the housing was bent, it's nothing but ruined. Attempting to straighten it would do nothing but weaken it further).

It's obvious your hatred here is quite virulent, unfortunately it's based completely on ignorance. If you actually knew something about it, you'd understand that the tire wear problems you keep bringing up have nothing to do with what you keep talking about. Those camber variations a couple degrees to either side of 0° as the suspension cycles are completely insignificant to tire wear, there are FAR more significant causes for the "erasing" of the tires, which can exist just as well on a straight axle, or any other type of IFS.




Oh and FYI, it's '38-'75 VW bugs, not just '49.


.  

it is totally possible i did that on my 95. 2 inches is about as long as you can go without messing up the camber. the parts and labor will be between $200 and $300 dollars. thats the range of estimates i had.  

Lifting mine 2" would straighten my tires out, rather than lean in from the top...........  

WOW
Man you must be an angry person to come on here and bash people that are just trying to help. It doesnt matter if someone is a die hard Ford TTB fan or not they SUCK! ANYONE that thinks the TTB is a good setup, obviously has very little automotive experience. The Ford TTB is AT BEST a huge pain in the ass.  
I have lifted nearly 200 trucks and SUVs and the TTB is BY FAR the worst I ever dealt with. I personally own a 95 F150 with a 6 inch lift. I have had more problems with my own truck than ANY non TTB
vehicle I have ever lifted. I have the extended radius arms that are supposed to help, but they dont.

The alignment CONSTANTLY changes causing weird problems, like tourque steer, bump steer, and wander. Every other day I get some new noise or see tire wear that shouldnt be happening. I have a BRAND NEW SNAP ON ALIGNMENT RACK but its no so much the alignment as it is the poor engineered suspension. So regardless of your experience or the quality of your alignment rack, these front ends are a nightmare after being lifted PERIOD!
I have a shop to run as I own a repair shop in Denver, and I dont have much more time for this so here it goes....
First off, I am an ASE MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC with over 18 years of professional experience.
With that said, lets see who the idiot really is...

First the Baja trucks dont run on the street and its much easier to run off road with bad alignment and not see driveability problems. Baja trucks are not even aligned like street driven vehicles. Just ask a Baja driver and they will tell you that those truck handle like crap on pavement. Hell you could probably do a Google search to find proof of that. Just like race cars on a track have different alignment than daily street drivers.

I would love to see a Baja truck handle on city streets LOL....NOT GOING TO HAPPEN! Just like a car setup for roundy rounds, it will not drive good on the street...its just setup different.

Second the alignment DOES change with every bump you hit. The best you can hope for is to set the aligment right and have a pretty good handling vehicle on SMOOTH FLAT ROADS!  
I could spend an hour going thru all the specifics about why and how it does this, but someone already did that. It was the post you were bashing...this person is actually right on, so I dont need to say it again.

I plan to either do a straight axle swap or sell this nightmare. I love my truck and I am a die hard Ford fan, but I personally hate the ford TTB setup. I think Ford did it just to be different than chevy and Dodge.
I think it was a mistake and the design is flawed, how else can you explain why the TTB setup has far more problems than any other design Ford ever used, lifted or not. Even the solid axle with radius arms style is 1000times better and less problematic, EVEN AFTER A LIFT IS INSTALLED.

I can tell you that if you plan to keep the TTB and lift your truck, BUY THE GOOD RANCHO SETUP WITH EXTENDED RADIUS ARMS! ALL OTHER KITS ARE JUNK  ESPECIALLY ROUGH COUNTRY.

Good luck to everyone, and you have a nice board here!
Thanks