I have a 1977 chevy cheyenne stepside. I purchased this truck for 600 bucks, and put a new fuel tank in it for 200 more.

       Having said this I now have to tell you that it has a 3/4 ton drive (Np205 Transfer case, Unknown automatic transmisson) train out of an 81 GMC.  I have discovered that it is extremly hard to find used aftermarket rims and tires for an 8 lug setup can anyone tell me where I might find theese parts without having to pay a fortune for them?

    Also the mill came out of an 88 pontiac transam (350 HO)I dont expect anyone to have any good advice on this engine it has been retrofitted to hold a 4barrel carb and run the points distributor off the 77 I would like to put a better igntion/distribution sys on this motor and would appriciate any advice that could be offered.

What is the best way to lift this front spring truck on a budget and keep it safe I would like to eventually fit 33-35/12"/R16 under this truck, it currently wears 265/75R16 123/120Q, how much will I need to lift this truck??

You do not need a lot of lift. I see people running outrageus lifts sometimes, and it makes me sick. 4 to 6 inches should work nicely. You can use blocks but I prefer to add leafs to the spring pack. Most add a leaf kits will not come close to 6 inches, but if you use a leaf in combo with a block, you will have a shorter block and more payload. The shorter block is safer. A tall block is safe but I get nervus with 6 extra inches of U bolt and plastic that can twst and brake.  

hey i would suggest doing like 6 inch lift.. then you could easily fit 38 with just a little of trimming the fenders...

in a 77 you actually probably dont have to use a lift to clear 33 with the right backspacing...  i have a 91 silverado that i am running 33's on right now stock, 8" rim with very little backspacing. to keep the tire in the fender. 

but go with 6" lift. then you  will not shoot yourself in the foot saying " saying i should have went with the bigger lift"    everyone that you talk to that has a 4" lift says that they wish they would have went  with the 6" lift.. but i guess that is all person appoin.   if you are not going to do much offroading, or loads (which i dont no why you wouldnt with that kinda truck)  but then i would go with a 2" body lift, even tho i am not a great fan body lifts, but they work well if you weld the box  blocks solid to the box and to the frame..

but i hope this help you out... if i can help anymore i will.. keep it real..  you have a really nice truck to deal with so lets see some pics when your done.    

later

4" lift would clear 35's easy and keep your COG low. Shackle flip in teh rear all new spring up front, DO NOT USE BLOCKS IN THE FRONT! Probably be done for less than 500.  

the pics will come soon im havin trouble with the digi camera rite now thanks for the advice  

First off the rims should be easy, look at your local tire shop,wrecking yard, or on the internet. 8 lug is common.

Second   is the motor really a 88 "HO" ? run the numbers on the block to make sure,  it should have centerbolt valve covers , but then again all smallblocks that year would . it could be a TBI truck motor .

Third    order a set of 6 inch springs for the front then 2 inch springs for the rear after that call OFF ROAD DESIGN they can help with a shackle flip for the rear as well as everything else you need to modify your truck

I would also add a rear locker . Detroits drop right in open 14 bolt carriers and improve offroad perfomance by 100%  with very few on road drawbacks.

yes the engine is an 88 "HO" I ran the vin of the car and the numbers off the block this mill did ot come out of a truck. it now has a 4bbl quadrajet carb.   I have looked at all of my local shops and the yards there are no rims to fit the wheels and lug pattern of my truck there The shops want a royal fortune for used rim and tire packs around here...

i am looking for a set of wider rims they dont have them.

the rear already has a detroit in it the man who sold me the truck informed me that it is there (I didnt trust him so i pulled it apart and looked)... 

first, the block maybe a 350 H.O. but the owner before you changed alot of parts.  By the "book" The 350 H.O. should have a TBI system on it not a Q-jet.  I am thinking they changed that to get away from the computer control system. 

Second, the dist. has been changed by you sayign it has points in it.  It is suppose to have a HEI dist. in it.  You can get new ones from "summit racing"(summitracing.com) or any other parts store.

Third, being that you have a chevy you can use any 8-hole rim on you truck.  Ford and dodge rims will fit on a chevy, but chevy rims will not fit on a ford or dodge.  The center hole is different.  On early ford (mid 80's - 90') some of the trucks came with a 16.5 alum rim that was 10" wide.   they look like a smaller version of the alum rims you see on semi's.  Yes, after market rim will cost, but the investment came be good if you are fixing up your truck to look nice.  Let me know what you are looking for and i can call my supplier and see if there is anything i can do for you.  And that is on anything you need for your truck.

Forth, the trans.  if the pan is square it is a 700R4.  This is a overdrive transmission similar in design to the tubo 350 (non- overdrive).  The turbo 350 has a square pan with a corner cut off.  The 350 trans can aslo come with a lock up converter.  It will look the same but you truck will have a small overdrive gear.  The turbo 400 tran is square on one end with outgrowths on the other end.  The pan is also held in place with 13 bolts.  That pretty much covers the trans that would be in your truck.  From best to worst:400, 350 then 700r4.  if you plan on doing any mudding and you have a 700r4 have it rebuilt and beefed up or it won't last long.

Fifth, a 4" lift is plenty for the tires you are talking about. but it also depends what you want your truck to look like.  recommented tire size for a 4" lift is 33" tires.  in reguards to what you might have read in these forums do not mix body lifts with suspension lifts.  Its not a safe combo and manufacures of these products also state that on their warnings instructions.  If you can do the lift without putting blocks between the springs and axels go that route.  They say blocks are safe but that makes that area the weakest link.

Give me more information on what you want or looking for then i can get you  some phone number, websights or prices for things you can't buy direct. I'll glad to help you in any way i can.

hey thanks for the help the tranny is the 350 im not shure if it is turbo or not i havent gotten under it lately it had been cold here.  

you are corect on the engin the old man did not like electronics and said he did not like the way the engin ran with them in place so he changed it out

thanks for the tip on the rims I did not realize that the dodge and ford rims would fit it that will make things alot easier..

if the trans is a 350, its a turbo 350, turbo when referring to a transmission isnt a turbo charger, its short for Turbo Hydromatic..  

it doesent matter any more what the tranny is i dropped high gear and messed up the valve body in the transmission i have a turbo 350 on the way in as we speak.  

drop that turbo 350 and put in a 400 youll be glad you did  

i had a 77 half ton and fit 33x12.50 swamper radials no problem. a 'quarter ton would be a tad bit higher but not much difference. all gm automatics of the time were named turbo, it just meant they ran off hydraulic fluid. as for the pontiac motor, my grandfather had a '72 gmc with a pontiac 400 and it was a screamer. so i would imagine that the 350 would be about the same, being of near identical design