body lift

I have a 96 chevy 1/2 ton with the torsion bars cranked up all the way, and 285/75r16 nittos on 16x9 inch rims. The problem is that they rub on hard turns. I am looking for a 1 inch body lift to help clear the tires  but cant find any. only 2 or 3 inch kits. any idea where i can find one?  

I have heard of people using hockey pucks for spacers for small body lifts. They are really tuff. ALso it is not wise to crank Tbars all the way up because it messes up geometry in front end and plays it at top of travel and can make ride pitchy and harsh at times. Tbars cranks and "keys" are really the worst way to lift that truck. It also place CV joints in front half shafts at higher angles which weakens their peak capacity and increases wear on them  and with oversized tires which places more strain on axles the last thing you want to do is weaken them by running them at higher angles. Lift it right or do not lift it.  

I know that its not the best way to lift this truck. this only a temporary fix. in the near future i plan on running a 3 inch rough country lift, with a rear add-a-leaf 1.5 inch lift. 305/70r16 for tires and turning the t bars back down to stock levels. and maybe that 1 inch body that ive been looking for, forever  

It is one of those pay me now or pay more later things when you do not lift right. Also I should mention that bigger tires raise effective gear ratio and make it taller so tranny has to work a lot harder and when you get to 305 or more, besides that fact that it will be a slug in top gear it can also shorten tranny life too if you do not regear axles. You cannot tune this problem away. Many have trannies fail and blame it on tranny but never the real cause which is wrong axle ratio for tire size and usage.  

i want to do a body lift on my 1995 tahoe. what problems will i run into?  

linkage, streched hard brake lines/ wireing, cutting on the fan shroud, a gap between the bumbers and the body.... nuff said?

all can be over come, it's more work than it seems to do a body lift properly.  
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Generally as above body lift have their problems but if you limit them to 2 inches, the impact is less to deal with. A 3 inches and above it can be a handful to properly do.  

You know whats funny, 99% of body lifts made are 3"... you rarely ever see a 1", 2", or 4"... So why would a 3" be a handful? As long as you're buying a kit and not stacking hockey pucks (please don't do this) you'll have everything you need to do a 3" properly with no issues.

Anywho...  
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do you know where i could find a 1' body lift?  

4WOR Web Editor:
You know whats funny, 99% of body lifts made are 3"... you rarely ever see a 1", 2", or 4"... So why would a 3" be a handful? As long as you're buying a kit and not stacking hockey pucks (please don't do this) you'll have everything you need to do a 3" properly with no issues.

Anywho...

Those kits are kinda cobbed together. They do not properly relocated radiator and such. 3 inches and above creates steering column issues with angle of it as well as length, shift linkages and so on. Myself I would spend the time and money on cutting and refinishing fenders and tubs before I would lift body a lot. The end result is a nicer looking package with a lower CG and overhead clearance too.  

well really all u need is a 3 inch lift,a wider wheel base,4 gigantic hella lights on the front[if you are a wheeler],and a 12 inch lift.....or smaller tires.  
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i have a 1999 chevy k1500 which is the sane style and i have 285/75/r16 kumho all terrains and they do not rub at all with no lift at all and my torsion bars are not cranked. you shouldnt need a body lift either maybe backspaced rims, i am running the stock rims also