Hello all, new member here with a question about leveling the front of my GMC.
I have a 1994 GMC 2500 reg cab 4x4. It is a heavy half ton/ light duty 3/4 ton. I would like to replace my torsion keys. Now I've read about people using Ford Keys in GMCs. If this is possible, what do I need to look for? Or if I have to buy aftermarket, where is the best place to buy?
Thanks for your help.

Sideshowrob.  

The best thing to do here is to not use the keys. Somehow people have gotten the idea that the way to lift that truck is to re-key T-bars but it is a poor solution. It throws geometry out of whack and it places front suspension at or near its limit of expansion. This is NOT the way to lift a GM IFS truck properly.  

Alright then, since you could offer up that advice, then how do suggest I get the 1-2" leveling I'm looking for?  

go with a skyjaccker 2.5 inch or a rancho 2.5. but if you want a true leveling kit get a roughcountry 3 inch kit. they have a great ride and give you 3 inches in front with an 1.5" add-a-leaf in the rear allowing you to run 285s or 305s with some fender trimming  

I don't know how you are using it but everyone locally cranks the torsion bars as first priority on any new GM HD pick-up. Second priority is a decent size tires. I cranked mine nine turns then added air bags to the back, threw on some 265 tires and gained nearly two inches at that low slung cross member nealy 100,000 miles ago. Afterwards I did a $60 allignment and have noted no problems. I don't do anything extreme but I live on dirt roads and needed more than the factory 8-1/2 inches of clearence.  

chevyk2500:
I don't know how you are using it but everyone locally cranks the torsion bars as first priority on any new GM HD pick-up. Second priority is a decent size tires. I cranked mine nine turns then added air bags to the back, threw on some 265 tires and gained nearly two inches at that low slung cross member nealy 100,000 miles ago. Afterwards I did a $60 allignment and have noted no problems. I don't do anything extreme but I live on dirt roads and needed more than the factory 8-1/2 inches of clearence.

Cranking it up is a very poor solution but somehow many think it is the greatest thing since apple pie. It does several things. First it effects suspension geometry and how tires track road as suspension articulates on unequal length control arms. (aligning it do not fix this, it only gives you a illusion that all is well) Next it places suspension at or near extension limit which can cause a pitchy ride at times as wheels cannot extend properly into a hole or depression without dragging/jerking truck down with it. Then there is the ball joint angle and loading on them from this crank job that increases stress on them and can accelerate wear. Last but not least is that CV's have highest torque capacity when they are run straight/level. When you crank it and force CV's to a higher average angle you are reducing peak torque capacity of them AND then increasing average torque on them as well with bigger tires. In a attempt to make your truck look more HD your are actually making it even lighter duty because of reasons above. The only proper way to lift a IFS is with a kit that relocates diff and control arms or replaces spindle knuckle so that suspension travel and geometry is PROPERLY maintained and CV are keep fairly flat/level for maximum possible design strength under the increased load of bigger tires.  

First off I didn't go to maximum lift, I found max then turned it back, second, I didn't do it to make my P/U "look more HD" I did it to gain some ground clearence, third I'll agree it changed how it tracks, now the front and rear tires run nearly perfectly in the same track instead of the half tread width overlap it had when I bought it (making it get down a slimey top soil mud road much straiter) and fourth, it has nearly 100,000 miles on this change and it seems to be doing fine under much harsher circumstances than what is encountered by 90% of these P/Us on the road. I see what you are saying on the point of overstressing components and I wouldn't be surprised if these ball joints wear out more quickly than did the first ones, I'll tell you when it rolls over 430,000 miles, but it is common practice out here in the sticks for a way to create better ground clearence.  

Yes you did try to make it HD because you wanted to raise it up. GM spent a lot of time and money on designing and building IFS and its geometry so it tracks properly and then someone comes along and cranks it up thinking they know more than those who built and designed it. As it is stock it has somewhat limited downward extension wheel travel before stop and cranking it makes it even less. Also using the track thing now being equal as a analogy for justification of crank job is poor. Myself I do not get upset at all if front and rear track varies by a inch or so. I could care less. You are using aesthetics as a reason for your logic rather than how it was designed to function.  

I understand how it was designed and I also understand that I have tampered with thier design but thier design has a flaw...a crossmember under the middle of the P/U that causes them to high center while crossing terraces in fields and pastures. The only factor on the wheel track is that it is easier to control and keep straight drivng down a muddy road when the back wheels fit the same track the front ones already cut.  

replying to the post above about wanting to run 285's and 315's, I have a stock height 94 k-1500, I am able to run firestone destination M/T's 285's with no modififcation, I realize that different brands of tires are not all going to be exactly the same height, just tryin to be helpful.  

285s would have fit but I didn't want to trim the front air dam. Dumb reason I know but I'm picky about such things. This one is a 2001 HD 2500 BTW, I know 285s will fit now but I don't know about the 315s.  

chevyk2500:
I understand how it was designed and I also understand that I have tampered with thier design but thier design has a flaw...a crossmember under the middle of the P/U that causes them to high center while crossing terraces in fields and pastures. The only factor on the wheel track is that it is easier to control and keep straight drivng down a muddy road when the back wheels fit the same track the front ones already cut.

This one is cute, I have to remember it "it will track better on muddy roads". Just when I thought I heard it all I get surprised. It is pretty lame.......  

Why are you hung up on this? You mentioned altering "how tires track" as a problem and I told you why it is actually advantagious. I will say one more time, I, and most of the locals, do this to gain some ground clearence without spending any money. Get over the tracking, you brought it up and I countered it.