I have a 99 ram 1500 5.9L with a K&N cold air intake, cat back flowmaster exhaust, and a superchip. I want more power, what can i do?  

Dakine69302:
I have a 99 ram 1500 5.9L with a K&N cold air intake, cat back flowmaster exhaust, and a superchip. I want more power, what can i do?

Typically most try air cleaners, cat backs, chipping and what have you to try to boost the output to make up for lifts only to find it does not work as there is no magic hidden HP in there. If you had spent you time and money on installing deeper axle gears, you would have been well rewarded for your efforts.  

you could always add a turbo that would give you plenty off power. But it adds heat so more cooling would also be part of it.  

Dakine69302:
I have a 99 ram 1500 5.9L with a K&N cold air intake, cat back flowmaster exhaust, and a superchip. I want more power, what can i do?

SnoMan:
Typically most try air cleaners, cat backs, chipping and what have you to try to boost the output to make up for lifts only to find it does not work as there is no magic hidden HP in there. If you had spent you time and money on installing deeper axle gears, you would have been well rewarded for your efforts.

snoman just a thought,  why don't you ask if he has giant tires and lift before atomatically scolding him for not having changed his gears, as for more power, im not sure there are any turbo kits out for that truck but im sure you can find a supercharger kit and what the heck while your at it throw in a 80 hp shot of nitrous    but seriuusly if ur running big tires you should regear before thinking about motor mods  

I am not scolding him but it is kinda classic. Lift it and install "magic" air cleaner (which I consider wasted money BTW) and a CAT back and "transform" it into a power house (or at least that is the plan) I have a few miles on me and I remember truck before they was even exhaust emission and when they were more generous with gearing too. This is a 1500 model here so even if it was not lifted it is going to tend have anemic gearing because of CAFE MPG fleet requirements (add lift and big tires will only make it worse and no tune will fix that) so it is going to be a bit lacking from factory stock. I tend to chuckle a lot about some people attempts to make their 4x4 HD when it reality they are making more LD because when they up tire size without changing gears, the reduce effective pulling/motive power (simple physics here) No air cleaner, chip or CAT back is going to fix that though many try. Nor do they understand that gas engine actually need a little back pressure for best torque and response at lower RPMs. So they do all the "mods" (chip, air filter, exhaust) and then wonder why it did not fix their problem.

I also chuckle about many's affinity for 87 octane. In modern engines you have to use conservative timing to tolerate 87 octane either via conservative ECM curve or in conjunction with knock sensor that quells knock before you hear it. Either way this costs you power too. 9 to 1 and higher CR and 87 do not mix without modified timing and a loss of power because of this. Many think they are saving money using cheapest gas but most of the times it is cheaper to use better gas because at todays prices, only a 3% improvement in MPG would "pay" use better fuel.  

sure it adds power don't ya know.... way ip in an unuseable rpm range. LOL, you'll never benifit from it.  

mudb8_:
sure it adds power don't ya know.... way ip in an unuseable rpm range. LOL, you'll never benifit from it.

Actually if your really understood this, better gas and proper timing will add power across the board and especially at lower RPM where it is most knock prone and needs the most conservative timing. There will always be those that think 87 octane is the holy grail of gas because they do not see the bigger picture here and thing they are saving money using cheapest possibly gas. This might be okay with later 70's and early 80 stock motor with 8 to 1 or so CR but it is not the case with modern engines and higher CR.  

mudb8_:
sure it adds power don't ya know.... way ip in an unuseable rpm range. LOL, you'll never benifit from it.

SnoMan:
Actually if your really understood this, better gas and proper timing will add power across the board and especially at lower RPM where it is most knock prone and needs the most conservative timing. There will always be those that think 87 octane is the holy grail of gas because they do not see the bigger picture here and thing they are saving money using cheapest possibly gas. This might be okay with later 70's and early 80 stock motor with 8 to 1 or so CR but it is not the case with modern engines and higher CR.

this has what to do with a cold air intake?  
I'm not in the dark here one bit. point is the peak power see's an increase where ya never run the engine in daily driving, money wasted...  

Actually you can add in to that on a off road truck a "cold" air intake is a bad idea bead it is more likely to suck in water and such. If you have a OBD2 vehicle and actually monitor you intake air temp, you will find that it is not as warm as you think especially under heavy throttle  

factory boxes also bring in air from outside the hot engine compartment via the resticted tube that every one "thinks" is robbing em of power, "cold" air kits are sucking in the hot air from inside the engine compartment.  

Jegs has a 408-360 stroker. over 400 lbs of torque and some ponys to boot. look at the edelbrock magnum heads and the performer/performer rpm gear. but the cheapest seems to be gearing,and while your at it add a traction adder or two!