gear ratio??

I have a 92 toyota ex-cab that already has a 4" Pro Comp suspension lift and a 3" body lift with 35x15.5 Super Swamper SX's. The truck has done good, but I recentley had to put an used engine (same V-6 3.0 yeah, power neg.) in it. I am about to do alot of upgrades to it. First off, I am starting with the ring and pinion axle gears.QUESTION??: [/bold][/bold]what gear ratio should I get for good slow rock crawling but not compromise gas mileage to bad?? impossible?? Personaly was thinking about 5:29's???  

With V6 I think I would try 5.29's too. Should play fairly well. MPG is not going to be great with any gear because of tires but I do not think 5.29'a will hurt you MPG wise. Truck should run a lot better too and make you think you had a engine upgrade.  

Thank's that helped out alot. I looked up the spects. and I have 8" 4:30's right now. Like I said I plan on some upgrades like: electric fan, cool air intake, headers, jet software on the control unit, MSD ign., sparkplug wire upgrades, etc.. hopefully I can get the most out of the 3.0. Any tips? Rockers and cams maybe??Also I am looking for a back issue of this mag. 93-98 that had an article on a mod. forrest grn.93' 4runner, blueprinted & bored over 3.0 V6, Pro Comp Suspension and 36" Super swampers? Anybody???  

dude you need to dicth the 3.0s!!!!! ive had 3 toyo trucks with 3.0s and all of them gave me the dreaded head/gasket problems that they always get, i rebuilt one and sold it, i rebuilt another like 3x till i swapped it out for a 3.4 swap , and the other is currently getting the heads redone and once the heads are back on motor im selling the truck, the 3.0s are good motor when they run but then they blow thier gaskets and thier junk go with the newer 3.4 you won't regret and theri is much more power potential for the 3.4  
Solid axle chevys can't be beat!
My dream truck: 73-91 chevy 3500 crew cab srw with dana 60/14bolt, 6 inc long travel lift with KING shocks, 37 inc tires and a 24v cummins diesel, nv5600 and np205

I've noticed that inherently with yota's 22R,22RE or V6 3.0. However, I firmly belive it is a heat prob. These engines have aluminum heads which warp easy. I think if they were properly cooled they would not do this. I have come to this theory because ever time I have been mudd boggin or putting these engines in a strain. Also the head bolts MUST be tightened and torqued in the proper sequence. Otherwise you will have head gasket problems again. But thanks for the input. Now question; Will the 3.4 mate up to the 92 tranny? 3.4 that's in a 98 and up right?  

Over heating is the number one cause of head gasket failure. When playing hard you must do what ever it takes to keep engine cool even if it means a bigger radiator and engine driven fan. Make no mistaken that electric fans look good on paper but lack the capacity for serious cooling.(to have enough capacity they would require more power than your electrical system can produce) On a offroad 4x4, electric fans should only be looked at as aux or supplemental cooling, not primary. One more thing, with aluminum head it is a good idea to recheck head bolt torque a few 100 miles after a rebuilt and as well on a engine with some miles on it.  

Makes sence. I guess in my mind I was thinking, less strain on the engine with an electric fan, the lower temps = cooler engine  

For the 35's 5.29 would be a good ratio if you have a manual, 5.71 if it's an auto.

For better cooling a larger capacity radiator would work best (3 row core instead of 2). Those cold air intakes aren't really worth the $, and mods to increase the HP, are just going to put more stress on an already failure prone engine (IMO). I'd spend the money on a 3.4 swap before I'd drop anything into a 3.slo.

And besides, once you are properly geared, you will regain a lot of the lost power from the larger tires.  
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seen in FOUR WHEELER magazine July 2006 and OFF-ROAD magazine Feb 2007

'84 4Runner SR5 -
ARBed 5.29s F&R, 4.7 & 2.28 t-cases, 2" drive train lift, AP hy-steer, BudBuilt x-member/skidplate, 36" TSLs, 30 spl Longs, Chevys, rears up front, winch, yada yada ...

'80 something Toy P/U -
Buick 231 V6, Holley 4 bbl, Weiand intake, Downey headers, TH350 L/U w/700R4 low gearset, dual tanks & batterys ...

89 4Runner SR5 -

Actually you have the gear ratios backwards, you go deeper with a stick because the clutch has no torque multiplication while a automatic does with torque converter.  

jmartin1992T:
Makes sence. I guess in my mind I was thinking, less strain on the engine with an electric fan, the lower temps = cooler engine

The power it takes from engine to run the fan is small in the scheme of things plus the 5 HP or more that a engine fan can use can move a serious about of air that is not possible with a 30 or 40 amp 12 volt fan that might make 1/4 to 1/3 HP if your lucky. To make that much HP to move that much air electrically would take over 200 amps. Also least not forget the extra load your 40 amp fan places on alternator and potentially shortening its life. (and engine drives than thing too)  

So should I not worry about the 3.0?? And will the 3.4 mate up to the 92' tranny??? As far as the cold air is concerned, you can make those.  

I would not worry about motor size. Just install some 5.29 gears (5.71's if you live at high altitude) and make sure cooling system is in good order and install a thicker radiator if you have problem with it running warm or even a engine driven flex fan. Without a clutch fan it will make extra fan noisy but it will keep it cool in any scenario too.  

Ok!ok! Three more questions and I'll leave you alone(for awile anyway   ). 1: I do have a manual tranny, 5.29's still? 2: ( dumb question I know ) What is a flex fan and where can I get one. 3: Are there any other product upgrade suppliers that you recommend, that are more reasonable than Performance Products?  

On axle ratio, if truck spends more time off road than on and maximum low speed crawl is important, do 5.71 because it will require less clutch action at low speed and place less torque on clutch at same ground speed. The 5.29 will put you close to stock performance with stock tires and gears (actually a little better than stock) A 5.71 would basically give you 10% more wheel torque in each gear and 10% more RPM at same ground speed vs 5.29. (with 5.71's you will likely find that you will not need low range except for rock crawling) On flex fan, you might try Advanced Auto or online for a  "kit" that includes a fan and a spacer for it and mounting bolts. Remember you need metric bolts and if kits has wrong bolt you can match threads at a good hardware store. As far as more, get gearing and cooling squared away first then see how is does before you plan anything else.  

yeah the 3.4 will mate up to your old tranny just fine, and the 22r and 22re motors are fine just keep them cool and they will run forever, but the 3.0 well probaley live longer with better cooling but they just don't seem to last and don't have much power either, im happey with the 3.4 i swapped in my 92 yota pickup.  
Solid axle chevys can't be beat!
My dream truck: 73-91 chevy 3500 crew cab srw with dana 60/14bolt, 6 inc long travel lift with KING shocks, 37 inc tires and a 24v cummins diesel, nv5600 and np205