no brakes

i have an 88 z71 and i just had to put new brakes on it.while doing them i noticed that a wheel cylinder was blown so i replaced it. while bleeding them i broke a bleeder screw so i replaced the caliper. i have bleed them three times and they stay the same. i can pump them once or twice and they hold pressure but if i don,t pump them they go almost to the floor and the brake light comes on.if anyone knows a way to bleed these things please help and thanks in advance  

You just need to bleed them right. It is really a two person job. Got to furthest brake and loosen bleeder. Have someone slowing press pedal down and watch what comes out. Have them hold pedal down (they do not need to stomp it either) and then put finger over tip of bleeder (this is quicker than tightening and untightening) when you have it sealed with finger have them release pedal and wait several seconds and do over. Repeat until you get good fluid flow with no air bubbles. When this happen have them hold pedal down until to close bleeder. Repeat for all wheels. Also it is important to make sure you do not let master cylinder run dry during this so check it after every wheel.  

SnoMan:
You just need to bleed them right. It is really a two person job. Got to furthest brake and loosen bleeder. Have someone slowing press pedal down and watch what comes out. Have them hold pedal down (they do not need to stomp it either) and then put finger over tip of bleeder (this is quicker than tightening and untightening) when you have it sealed with finger have them release pedal and wait several seconds and do over. Repeat until you get good fluid flow with no air bubbles. When this happen have them hold pedal down until to close bleeder. Repeat for all wheels. Also it is important to make sure you do not let master cylinder run dry during this so check it after every wheel.

so you don't have someone pump the brakes? the way i did it was to have my brother pump the brakes and hold them then i loosened the bleeder screw. if i understand this i loosen the screw and then have someone press the pedal  

I have worked on Honda cars for ten years now and other vehicles all my life and we have always had the helper pump them up and hold the pedal, then the tech loosens the bleeder screw and the pedal goes to the floor. Then the helper doesn't let up on the pedal until the tech tells him the bleeder screw is now tight. Be careful because brake fluid can blind you and it is oil based and takes forever to wash out and you won't be able to see for at least thirty mins for it has happened to me.It burns much worse than carb cleaner etc and last a whole lot longer.
Also you may have gotten air in your brake master cyl.After bleeding all four wheels if you don't have a stiff pedal then bleed the master cyl. The best way to test for air in the system after bleeding is to pump the pedal up and note the height from the floor---I hold my left foot the same height the pedal was then let go of the brake pedal. Count to fifteen and depress the pedal once and if it is at the same height as your left foot and hard then all is ok.
If you have to bleed the master cyl the method I use since your not replacing it and bench bleeding it is have a helper get in the car. Tell him not to touch the brake pedal yet. Loosen both brake line at the master cyl some. Now get the helper to very very slowly start to depress the brake pedal you may see air bubbles or just fluid come out...let it get to where only fluid is coming out of each cracked line then tighten them up before the helper has the pedal to the floor.We always stay in communication when doing this as in helper says quarter way down, half way and usually by half way i'm tightening the lines and get them tight before it bottoms out. Also make sure the helper never lets up on the pedal at all....he or she must always slowly be depressing it.

I can't remember if your working on disc or drum brakes or both but if it's rear drum brakes a lot of the time one can gravity bleed new wheel cyls. Just open the bleeder screw and wait and see if fluid starts coming out of it and if so let it drip for awhile and it is probably now bled. On disc brakes you have to use the pedal method if you have gotten air in the system or use a vacuum pump. Good luck and I hope I helped in some way.  

SnoMan:
You just need to bleed them right. It is really a two person job. Got to furthest brake and loosen bleeder. Have someone slowing press pedal down and watch what comes out. Have them hold pedal down (they do not need to stomp it either) and then put finger over tip of bleeder (this is quicker than tightening and untightening) when you have it sealed with finger have them release pedal and wait several seconds and do over. Repeat until you get good fluid flow with no air bubbles. When this happen have them hold pedal down until to close bleeder. Repeat for all wheels. Also it is important to make sure you do not let master cylinder run dry during this so check it after every wheel.

350z71:
so you don't have someone pump the brakes? the way i did it was to have my brother pump the brakes and hold them then i loosened the bleeder screw. if i understand this i loosen the screw and then have someone press the pedal

I do not pump up the brakes. The reason is that today cars have power boosted brakes and I do this engine off and you can get a better feel and more consistent bleed this way and less mess because you do not have explosive bleeds. It might take a few more minutes but it always works. Not only that but when you pump it to can force air temporarily in to part of system you are not bleeding as it is compressed and and a low pressure bleed gets air out more consistently. BTW, I used to tighten bleeder screw between bleeds but found it is not needed if you use your finger and it speeds things up. Sometimes the bleeder can be a pain to open and close repeatably do to clearance or access to it.  

do you use the same method to bleed the master cylinder execpt using the brake lines instead of a bleeder screw? i have noticed that there is a bleeder screw on the ABS pump, can i use that to bleed the master cylinder  

I always bleed system at end ports (wheels). I just put new custom made SS lines on the rear of my 2000 K3500 than I made up and flared myself. It has ABS and I bleed system at wheels. (I also replace a few lines in front too) It took several times/cycles to get air out but pedal is high and firm. I would bleed ABS separately only if there was a issue with it not working right because of trapped air. Those bleeders on it are a attempt to simplify bleeding if ABS unit is replaced.