'85 Dodge Buildup

I have an 1985 Dodge W-150, it has a 360 V8 with a 727 three speed auto trans. not sure about the t-case a Dana 44 auto locking front axle and a Chrysler 9 1/4 rear with a 8" lift running 37x12.50's. I am looking to swap axles for one tons and don't really know what to go with i have been leaning toward a 60 up front and a 70 rear but i don't know what gearing to go with 4.10 or 4.56. I plan to put a body lift on and swap the 37's for 40x14.50's. I drive the truck about 40 miles every weekday and do some Alabama mudding on the side. I don't really wanna swap the trans. because i just rebuilt it i just want the best setup to get about an average of 10 MPG's and still have enough power to turn the 40's in the mud. Any help is appreciatted.  

i am running about the same setup you are i went to a 14 bolt corporate rear axle out of a 3/4 ton chevy it is unbreakable i was running 38 inch boggers but now i have 36 inch swampers but im still running the same dana 44 front end but going to upgrade to a dana 60 front just dont have the money to do so as of right now im running 4.10 and get about 11 mpg but thats with 36's i hope i helped  

Thanks! Any help is appreciatted. I'm about convinced i'm gonna get a 14 bolt rearend and a dana 60 front end 8 lugs and run 4.10's. I was gonna add a little more lift to run 40's but i've decided that 38x14.50's will do fine for now.    Thanks for the help though!  

Ok if it was me I would get the 4.56 gears or 4.88s since the truck doesnt get drove all that much. They will really wake it up from the 3.73 you got in it.
Really Really wake it up!!!!  
Dying ain't much of a livin'
From my favorite movie.
Trucks...
1989 150(200k) 33 inch hawgs and a blown 302.
1995 Pathfinder(178k)and still going with 31s.
Bikes.
2004 Yamaha TTR 225,barly used.
Kawasaki 750 (26k) Not ran right since carbs rebuilt.
!972 Yamaha mini enduro.The niceest one I've ever seen thats never been painted.
New 2002 f150,fx4,5.4v8,after market tranny coolers and unirol tires.

The truck gets drove everyday! I drive it about 50 miles monday through friday and then it gets driven where ever i go on the weekends. I put over 1,000 miles on it a month. Its not really underpowered either i just don't want it lugging on steep hills and stuff but it needs an ok top end too.  

no doubt i would go with a corporate 14 bolt in back  

Rednex85:
The truck gets drove everyday! I drive it about 50 miles monday through friday and then it gets driven where ever i go on the weekends. I put over 1,000 miles on it a month. Its not really underpowered either i just don't want it lugging on steep hills and stuff but it needs an ok top end too.

Oops .Since you said you wanted to run40s I was thinking it was a bogger only truck not a DD.Go with the 4.10s or 4.56s.The 4.10s will probly be the most high way freandly but the 4.56s will work if its mostly around the town.  
Dying ain't much of a livin'
From my favorite movie.
Trucks...
1989 150(200k) 33 inch hawgs and a blown 302.
1995 Pathfinder(178k)and still going with 31s.
Bikes.
2004 Yamaha TTR 225,barly used.
Kawasaki 750 (26k) Not ran right since carbs rebuilt.
!972 Yamaha mini enduro.The niceest one I've ever seen thats never been painted.
New 2002 f150,fx4,5.4v8,after market tranny coolers and unirol tires.

I have changed my mind on my tire i would have to put more lift and i don't really want to put a body lift on just yet so i'm gonna run 38x14.50's. I am still wanting the same setup though, 60 front 14 bolt rear, but would the 4.10's be enough to spin the tires? and should i run a detroit in the rear and an arb air locker in the front or should i do something else?  

I'd go up to 4.56s to spin the 38s decent.  
Dying ain't much of a livin'
From my favorite movie.
Trucks...
1989 150(200k) 33 inch hawgs and a blown 302.
1995 Pathfinder(178k)and still going with 31s.
Bikes.
2004 Yamaha TTR 225,barly used.
Kawasaki 750 (26k) Not ran right since carbs rebuilt.
!972 Yamaha mini enduro.The niceest one I've ever seen thats never been painted.
New 2002 f150,fx4,5.4v8,after market tranny coolers and unirol tires.

Thanks!  Any info on axles or traction aids will help tons. I've never had a locker or aftermarket limited slip, so i'm kinda new at this. Do's and don'ts will be appreciated. I'm pretty sure i need an air locker or cable locker up front but in the rear I have been told that a detroit is the way to go. I was told it will eat up the rubber on turns on the highway but nothing too bad and great for mud and dirt.  

I've decided to run a 14 bolt rear and a dana 60 front, 4.56 gears. Has anyone took a 14 bolt with 4.10 gears and got the new diff to hold the 4.56's and a detroit? Any help would be appreciatted. I have a 14 bolt, but its the 4.10 and higher diff.  

i run a 83 w350 single rear wheels 360 4 speed 410 gears 35 bf goodrich mt's it is all you need to get wicked on the street or in the mud only mods eldebrock performer ,mild cam ,a little clean up on the heads.dana 60s f&r i also pull a gooseneck equipment trailer. get sideways in the street top out triple digit  

if you are able you could consider an engine touch-up 360 engines come with a fairly low compression from factory.  You could throw a little beef to an engine that likely has done its share of work already.  Summit racing offers a rebuild kit for 409.95 that includes all bearings and gaskets and new oil pump frost plugs rings and pistons.  part # fem-mhp154-000 for stock size bore and bearings,  the kit lists dish pistons but the kit contents list and illustrate flat top pistons.  add a nice bottom end cam, lifter, and timing set.  And perhaps head work.  I dont want to get carried away so IMO you should be able to re-fresh this engine for 1000-1500 and add a solid amount of power to toss mud on your buddies.  

The truck has started drinking oil and is starting to smoke a lil, so I will be pulling the motor soon to do some head work. While it is out we are gonna rebuild it and I'm gonna go from there. Anyone know of a nice lower end cam that is streetable?  

picking  a cam is like picking tires.  a cam for you isn't going to be the cam for the next guy.  if you can talk to a few local guys with a similar setup or just get involved with a tech from the cam manufacturer.  be aware that someone giving you advice may have installed a high stall torque converter which drastically changes the cam selection.  my vote lies with the manufacturer.  also make sure you magnaflux your project heads for cracks before investing alot of time porting and such.
good luck.