Loosing my bearings over bearings

I have a 1979 power wagon with auto locking hubs this set up sucks. I’ve had nothing but problems with this and that was with 33” tires on it. I want to move up in tire size no bigger then 37” is there a way to change hubs and bearing set up with out going broke please any help would be greatly appreciated  

WHat problem are you having? When properly setup they can run for years without trouble. You are doing something wrong here.  

I have not touched the truck in a couple of years but if my memory serves me correctly on the back of the rotor you have a seal ,a race the bearing a spacer another bearing then a race in that order I think. It all gets pressed on then it all slides snug in to a housing as one unit. How tight should it fit into that housing? The problem is it does not fit that snug and the bearings are wearing very fast. One more thing how can I identify what axle this is?  

It sound like you have that nasty hubless axle they used from 73 to 79. There is not autolocking hubs because axles are always engaged to hubs. There should be a tight pressed fit between outer race on hub housing. You could get the knuckles, axle stubs and splindle of another axle with full hubs on it and get rid of that hub all together (or swap out complete axle) If you have axle I think you do (no hubs sticking through front wheels) they are a pain to work on and do not hold up as well as conventional style hubs.  

Your absolutely right when every thing is done and the rim and tire is on there it looks like a two wheel drive truck. Now that I think about it I believe the truck is all wheel drive four wheel drive. What is a cheaper fix? If I change the knuckles what year should I look for. What should I get the axle out of if I go that way? (not looking to do a bunch of fab work)  

You would need to change knuckles, stub shafts (axle shaft from Ujoint out) add spindle that go with new knuckles and hub assemble too. These can come from a D44 that has correct hubs design and correct wheel bolt pattern. Time/labor wise though it would be a lot easier to swap out complete axle.  

I was reading some were else that any Dana 60 or 70 rear from a 88 to 92 dodge ram Cummins 4x4 will bolt right in with no fab work. Is this true for the front as well? and will a Dana 44 hold up if iam not going any bigger then 37" tires? I dont have alot of money but i have plenty of time for labor.  

I consider 33's the limit for hard play on a D44 on a full sized truck. With this size it should hold up well. 35's is kinda a gray area and beyond that you a flirting with failure unless it is a parking lot queen.  

No parking lot queen here. Ill start looking to see what I can find. Do you have any suggestions as to what year and size Dodge I should look for? And how do I identify a Dana 60 from a 44?  

The pig on a D60 is 12 inches from top to bottom and axle tubes are 3 1/8 inch or a bit bigger. A D70 has a 12.8 inch pig and 4 inch diameter tubes.  

Great thank you very much for that info I think ill start looking for some Dana 60 to put in it.  

a cheap way out is to find the hubs from a newer dodge like 84 up and get from the knuckles out everything will bolt right on thats what i did to mine it works good  

1996 Dodge truck 3/4 ton SLT 8 lug  would this truck have Dana 60s in it and would it be all wheel drive or four wheel drive with auto locking hubs in it would these axles work for my 79 dodge  

I think the 96 rear would be ok for you but the front should be coil sprung and i believe the pumpkin will be on the wrong side for your transfer case.  If you are looking for axles from 2 different donor trucks you will have to watch for the axle ratios.  also if you can find a cheap 60 for the front and still need a rear look into a gm 14 bolt you should be able to find one easier.  dodge 3/4and 1 ton trucks had right hand side drive in the front until 94 I believe.  the old ugly square body style with leaf springs in the front.  

How much will the axles in it take what size tire can they hold up to if I change from the knuckle out or should I just look for a better axle set? And if I change from the knuckle out and put auto locking hubs in it do I need to change my transfer case out or can it still be used?