Suspension questions on my 1972 blazer

I currently only have a 2" lift on my 1972 K5.  I am looking for something to give me more articulation and was wondering what I would have to do to accomplish this.  If anyone knows what can help me, I'm new to 4x4ing and don't really know what the basics are.  Thank you for any help.  

This is a tough question. The articulation is limited by suspension design. there are certain things to do with leafs. but you have to be pretty good mechanically to do them. A popular modification is to put 52" leafs up front on relocated mounts and putting 63" leafs out back with relocated mounts. There are companies that sell kits to do these but they all require some mechanical knowledge. Look on a website called DIY4X they have a kit to convert the front to 52" springs. Another route is to do a custom 4 link setup with coilovers but that is major mechanical and really need good welding skills and some engineering skill. Articulation is nice but if your spinning your tires lockers could be a big help. Leaf spring suspensions are just limited by design.  

Check your shock lengths first. just unbolt the shocks from the axle and flex your suspension CAREFULLY. Cycle your shocks by hand to determine if they are to short by measuring from the shock eye to the axle mount. Through my experience the shocks are usually the limiting factor in stock type leaf spring suspensions. With the correct length shocks you should gain a little more flex-Good luck!  

Go to offroaddesign.com and buy their sway bar disconnects. I bought them for my K10 and it freed up a good amount of articulation and there not that expensive. As predfern73 said buying longer shocks coupled with the sway bar disconnects you wont need to do an expensive four link setup.  

86ChevyK10 has the right idea, I forgot about disconnects! I have some on my Jeep Grand Cherokee and they work great! I'm on my second '79 3/4 ton chevy longbed, it's almost the same thing as my last one so I'm running the same 6" kit but on both trucks I removed the sway bar and haven't encountered any problems yet even while towing or hauling wood and misc. truck parts. Disconnects may be the better method for you though and they are usually cheap enough you won't be out a bundle if you eventually remove the sway bar altogether. & once again Good Luck!  

The '72 dosn't have a swaybar from the factory, so thats out.  I went with rear springs in the front, moving both sets of brackets 4" gained 5" of lift, superior ride quality and flex.  I coupled it  with a shackle flip in the rear for matching lift.  The shackle flip is bad for articulation where as the rear springs in the front were a plus.  On my'70 Suburban  I am able to put one wheel on an object 42" high with the other three flat.  I did have to limit that because the longest shocks I found at the time only had 16 3/4"of travel so I was limited.  Your Blazer is shorter so if you put rears in the front it won't flex as much but will ride a lot smother than factory and rear springs can be had cheep, especially if you buy 4" rears, put them in the back and move your factory rears to the front.