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Cheap and safe lift?
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Posted: 07/05/10 04:41 AM
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First of all big fan of 4wheel off road,thanks for giving me the chance to ask you guys and gals out there this question. I have a 1997 F150 extended cab flareside 4x4, and I want to put 15x10 wheels and 33's on it, so I was wondering what is the most cost efficient and safe lift for my application?
Thanks for your time and info 97flare4x4
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Posted: 07/05/10 11:43 PM
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A 3in body lift costs about $100 bux and will clear 33s and you wont lose your factory ride but you dont gain much clearence. the only clearence you gain is from the larger tires. Plus if you are a shadetree mechanic you can do this in an afternoon with a jack and an impact gun. Just my 2 cents
My bumper sticker says "NOT A HIPPIE JUST A WELL GROOMED MOUNTAIN MAN" LoL
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76highboy
New User
| Posts: 46
| Joined: 02/10
Posted: 10/11/10 07:17 PM
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just cut wooden blocks that are the same width as your leafs and put them between the leafs and the axle and then just buy longer U-bolts its very cheap you could probably do it for $40
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YZ250JV
Enthusiast
| Posts: 472
| Joined: 03/08
Posted: 10/12/10 11:44 PM
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Wood blocks? Are you F'n serious? Only someone without a brain would suggest this. Not only is it illegal but it is extremely unsafe. If you know the laws and read them thoroughly, it explicitly explains in the statute itself the type of material the blocks are required to be constructed of and wood is not considered a solid state material. Sorry to be arrogant about this but it is one of those things that people do "cheap" and cause an accident and someone ends up getting hurt or even killed and it could ruin it for everyone. Years ago this was done here in the state of Utah where a guy on a too tight of budget decides to use wood blocks and ended up in a head-on collision and killed the mother of three kids due to the blocks giving out. Enough said
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Posted: 10/13/10 09:32 AM
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seriously the dude with the wooden blocks you are stupid and should not be let around 4x4 trucks or even cars.. nuff said... and well to answer the original question i would save my pennies and try top go suspension but if you want you could also go with a body lift but im not a big fan of body lifts on serious trails. good luck with your project
noise mud exhaust fumes!
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Posted: 10/13/10 08:09 PM
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wooden blocks...wow! ive never heard of that...lol...well n-e-ways.. i have a 3 in. body lift on my dodge and it will indeed help you clear 33's, but and still rides pretty good and is relatively cheap...otherwise just go with a suspension lift... its a little more expensive, but will ensure to keep your rig smooth, if not then even smoother.
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stever70
New User
| Posts: 39
| Joined: 10/10
Posted: 10/17/10 07:18 PM
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Wood blocks??? At first I thought he was going to say "just kidding". I seriously hope that no one actually takes it seriously. I agree that the body lift will be the cheapest, but you would probably be more happy with a suspension lift. If you can save, thats the route I would recommend. Good luck and have fun with it
'68 Bay window bus CJ7 frame LT1 with 37" tires
MY BUILD LOG: http://offroadvwbus.blogspot.com/
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Posted: 10/28/10 03:52 PM
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sounds like we would get along prty well. i think the wooden blocks are a good idea, depending on what kinda of budget u got to work with. i have done n seen some prty amazing stuff. weather its the right way or not.I myself have thought about doind something like that. That guy never said he was keeping it street legal EITHER
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Posted: 10/30/10 02:59 PM
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Cut the fenders to clear and save for a suspension lift. The body lift would put a lot of strain on the bolts which creates the potential for them to break and the body to separate from the frame. But if you do choose that route I have heard it recommended not to go over 2 inches.
'91 K1500 (Stock) LT285/75R16 Play hard! Play soft! As long as you are having fun!
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Posted: 11/12/10 09:47 PM
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no wooden blocks and no body lift...body lifts are extriemly unsafe in my opinion (something happends like hit a ditch or hole and those 9/16 bolts holding your body on will bend and break)
take the rear spring hangers off the frame and flip it then bolt it back on (gives you 4in of lift and tilts your rearend at the same time to line up your driveshaft better) now if you have an axel in the front you can find some lift coil springs pretty decent on craigslist or ebay for under 100 bucks then make some brackets to lower your brake hoses (small piece of angle iron and drill a hole to holt it) and you may have to buy a drop pitman arm (ebay) best way to do it in my opinion
now it just came to my attention that you have a 97 after i typed all of that and you probably have torsion bars and whatnot in the front..on that you may have to end up buying a kit unless you can crank up the torsion bars 4in.. just remember anythings possible
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Posted: 12/15/10 09:31 AM
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i got a 97 f150 and 15" rims will not fit if you try to you got to get a 2" spacer and the a rim with a 2" back spacing. i got 33s on my stock truck and have no problems
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